Exploring Point Reyes Lighthouse / Chimney Rock

A rugged outpost on the headlands

By Brandon Wang

April 28^th, 2024

The Point Reyes Lighthouse is one of California's most iconic viewpoints. It sits at the very tip of the Point Reyes Headlands after a beautiful hour-long drive through rolling hills, historic ranches, and coastal views. All the historic ranches are lettered in order, with "A Ranch" located at the southern tip. The operating B Ranch has cattle regularly crossing the park road.

The lighthouse itself sits at the very bottom of the bluffs, accessed by 300 strenuous staircase steps that often close due to high wind. At the bottom, there's an exhibit on "fog technology" and a small room inside the lighthouse where you can get up close to the lens and equipment (although there are easier California lighthouses if your goal is to see a Fresnel lens). We decided not to make the climb up and down this time around.

Instead, we explored the area at the top. One highlight was the observation deck located right before the stairs begin, where nature docents were on hand to explain to us various bird and whale migration patterns. They also had binoculars that we borrowed to look for whales. Unfortunately, we didn't see any this time around but it was still fun to observe ships in the distance (and other people as they struggled back up the steps).

The walk itself is beautiful, with unobstructed views of the ocean as the path winds around cypress trees and mid-century park staff residences. The character of the historic buildings added a lot of charm.

Exploring Point Reyes Lighthouse / Chimney Rock

Chimney Rock / Elephant Seal Overlook

A quick addition to a lighthouse trip is the 10 minute detour to Chimney Rock where you can find a path that extends to the southeastern point of Point Reyes as well as a distant view to the elephant seal pupping area, which is generally closed to the public.

On the day we visited, nature docents at the lighthouse gave us an insider tip that elephant seals had been spotted near the historic boathouse off of the Chimney Rock path earlier that day. Here a peaceful and cypress tree-lined path winds around historic structures— the lifeboat station chief's home— over to the viewpoint.

We did spot the elephant seal although only from a large distance where it laid unmoving on the beach sand. You're not allowed to get close and a sleeping elephant seal is not actually visually that appealing (I'd describe it as a large dark blob). Nevertheless, the stop was a lovely opportunity to see the historic Coast Guard boathouse where lifeboats had previously been launched to save ships in distress. Some of the buildings have been kept in great conditions while others were clearly in a state of decay.

One particular highlight: an incredible view of Drakes Bay as it bends around the iconic Point Reyes curve. You can see all the way around to the north and the cliffs are sheer, flat faced, and stark. It is a powerful reminder of nature's erosion forces.